Latest insights on up-and-coming watch styles for the year 2025 according to Vogue Man's findings.
In the world of luxury, the annual Watches and Wonders event is the pinnacle, showcasing elaborate new creations from prestigious watchmakers. The gold standard of 2025 is a revival of old-school elegance in a sleek, modern package. Time-honored designs, such as chiming repeaters and perpetual calendars, are making a roaring comeback, faster and flashier than ever.
One such masterpiece is the Tank à Guichets by Cartier, a reimagining of an iconic century-old design. This chic watch, featuring a compact, enclosed case with time displayed through a pair of apertures, has collectors cheering as the brand releases limited, faithful reproductions.
Individualistic collectors and aficionados also take a liking to former anachronisms like desk clocks, reinvented as contemporary art pieces.
Vogue Man delves into the heart of the action, keeping you up-to-date on the latest and greatest timepieces of the year.
Peek-a-boo Designs
Innovative transparency is the name of the game, as designers showcase intricate watch mechanics through coloured sapphire glass. On Patek Philippe's ref. 6159G, indications are artfully arranged thanks to contrasting frames and glowing numerals. Panerai's new Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech shines bright with its deep blue sapphire crystal dial and luminescent markers.
Artistry is at the forefront with Hermès’ Arceau Le Temps Suspendu, which features a whimsical complication that suspends time. The innovative timepiece sports a stepped dial, inspired by a dreamy, non-linear take on time, and tinted sapphire centres to match the watch's colourways.
Profound Perpetuals
Perpetual calendars, one of horology's toughest complications, require minimal adjustment - theoretically, only once per century. Brands are successfully simplifying their design while preserving the ingenious complexity inherent in this complication.
Parmigiani Fleurier's Toric Quantième Perpétuel and IWC's Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 showcase PERFECT balance between elegance and mechanical brilliance. They’re sure to captivate watch enthusiasts with their sleek, modern aesthetics and precise, academic design.
Blue is the New Black
Blue has reclaimed its spot as the 'it' color this year. It's being used creatively on multiple fronts, from watch materials to elaborate details. Chanel dedicated five years to creating matte, midnight blue ceramic for its J12 collection, while Hublot introduced a new Big Bang Unico in petrol blue ceramic.
Mystical Minutes
Nothing quite stirs the soul like the sound of an authentic chiming complication, which dates back to an era before electricity when time-telling was essential in the dark. Brands are showcasing this rare artistry in their latest collections. Parmigiani Fleurier's Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse stands out, featuring a captivating design front and reverse, revealing a secret dial for setting the time on the reverse side.
Deskbound Beauties
For the most dedicated collectors, admiration of horology extends beyond the wrist. Desk clocks are currently experiencing a renaissance, with brands crafting exquisite, high-end versions that are not just functional but also cherished collectibles.
Van Cleef & Arpels’ Planétarium automata clock represents our solar system with jeweled planets, while Chanel's Lion Diamonds Astroclock is covered in 5,037 precious stones. These rare creations evoke a sense of wonder and demonstrate the luxurious side of complex horological designs.
- The 'Tank à Guichets' by Cartier, a contemporary take on an iconic design, has collected enthusiasts cheering with its faithfully reproduced limited models.
- As designers reveal their innovative concepts, intricate watch mechanics are displayed through colored sapphire glass, as seen in Patek Philippe's ref. 6159G.
- In the realm of artistry and timekeeping, Hermès' Arceau Le Temps Suspendu captivates with its whimsical complication that suspends time and tinted sapphire centres to match its colourways.
- Being a popular trend this year, blue can be found in multiple aspects, from watch materials to elaborate details, as witnessed in Chanel's J12 collection and Hublot's Big Bang Unico.
- Brands are simplifying their designs while preserving the complexity of perpetual calendars, as demonstrated by Parmigiani Fleurier's Toric Quantième Perpétuel and IWC's Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41.
- For those with an appreciation for horology beyond the wrist, unique desk clocks such as Van Cleef & Arpels’ Planétarium automata clock and Chanel's Lion Diamonds Astroclock offer both functionality and collectibility, demonstrating the luxurious side of complex horological designs.
